- Stralsund, 14th century,
from the estate of the Kaland brotherhood at St Nicholas'. Five types of lampas (woven silk) as outer fabric; central Asia or northern China, 1st half of the 14th century; width: 134 cm
Five different silk fabrics were woven in central Asia or northern China in a variety of grey tones to produce this wide-sleeved tunic.
The main material shows golden vines with differently shaped blossoms. The fabric used for the triangular inserts on the front shows a golden pattern with some other colours. Large palmettes, each with a pseudo-Chinese character, alternate with winding and ascending vines in full blossom. The material used on the front of the sleeves has a red-golden pattern comprising lotus palmettes within circular vines, interspersed with a phoenix and a small arrangement of leaves and blossoms.
The lower trimming displays a rich golden motif with peacocks, leaves, blossoms and pseudo-Chinese characters on a turquoise base.
The extraordinarily homogeneous appearance of the sections patterned in gold is due to the special properties of the floating lancé weft, which on all of the fabrics consists of slender strips of gilded leather, known as strapped gold.